Climbed Dobong Monain. Killed My Legs.

Turns out Dobong Mountain is a steep bastard of a mountain to climb. I was out of practice, so it took days before I could do things like stairs again.

But once you get to the top it's crunking beautiful.

Here's a panorama I took last wednesday. Click on the image for a full-size picture.

Writing from prisoners: my friend Tamie

My friend Tamie writes an awesome blog called "The Owls & The Angels" and these days she's teaching a writing class to inmates at a prison in the town where she lives.

She wrote a beautiful piece, brimming with respect and compassion, for the inmates she interacts with there. You should read it.

She also has a blog where she publishes (with permission) the writings of her students. You should read it, too, and write comments.

Go read, dear readers. This is important. Humanizing other people humanizes us.

Tamie writes:

My brother told me recently that he thinks someday future generations will look back on the US incarceration system as we now look on slavery or genocide: as something unthinkable and horrifying, something we cannot understand how humans could do to one another. The more I hear the full stories of the people in jail, the more I am convinced that my brother is right.

Inwang Mountain and JjimDalk: Awesome Day

Given such fantastic weather, Girlfriendoseyo, Mom-in-law-oseyo, and I climbed Inwang-san, or Inwang Mountain, this Saturday.

The mountain was in fine form, with cherry blossoms and magnolias still in bloom.

The tree cover had pink peeking through.

The air was clear enough to see from Inwang Mountain, all the way to the 63 Building on Yeouido.

Girlfriendoseyo playing with her dog.  Cherry blossoms through the opening in the wood grove.

Mother-in-law-oseyo loves the mountain.

After a good climb on the mountain, we had a special treat in store: Andong JjimDalk.  Andong JjimDalk is so good, that it's just not worth eating it anywhere except in Andong... but Girlfriendoseyo heard that some of the JjimDalk restaurants in Andong will actually deliver their recipes to you in Seoul, if you order them a few days ahead of time.  Girlfriendoseyo did exactly that.  We'd been planning a jjimdalk party sometime, but before we ordered it to eat with a bunch of friends, we wanted to try it, and make sure it was the same stuff on deliveray, as it was in Andong.  After climbing the mountain, Mother-In-Law-oseyo warmed up the recipe that had been delivered, and readers... it was almost as good as making the trip to Andong.


A bit closer:

And this, readers, is a picture of a full, and happy Roboseyo.

Bravo my life!

And then, on the way home, I saw something amazing: on the subway, this old lady got on the subway, and fell into the most amazing kimchi squat I've ever seen. She curled into a tiny ball on her heels, fell just about asleep, and no matter which way the train pitched, rolled, accelerated, and decelerated, she stayed put. I've never seen a kimchi squat so stable. People were getting on and off near her, and bumping her, and she was unperturbed. Impressive.

More of Busan: Taejongdae and Haeundae

I'm kind of loath to bury the post I wrote yesterday about ATEK under a bunch of pictures, so if you want to read something more important, rather than just seeing a travelogue, here's that thing about ATEK again. The pictures are nice, but this article matters more, in the grander scheme.


After my trip to Busan, I added a bunch of pictures from Jalgalchi market, which was great.

Next, I have more pictures from some of the other parts of Busan I visited.

The very best ones are all in this video, including some video of knife sharpeners and waves crashing. But below are also lots of pictures. The video has music. The pictures below have explanations. You must pick. Or do one, and then the other. That's OK too. I don't mind.


Taejongdae is a resort/cliffy rocky place/park on the edge of town: Girlfriendoseyo explained that while Seoul traditionally had only the one, main downtown area, because Busan is a port city, it always had two main strips - the city's always been spread out more than other cities in Korea.

So we took a bus out to Taejongdae, and saw this on the way:



Busan is one of the busiest harbors in the world.


Hong Kong Harbor just about blew my mind, but this sure wasn't anything to sniff at, either.

Taejongdae had beautiful rocks and water. Mmm.


Here's a white guy photoshopped into a picture of Taejongdae. There's a Japanese island somewhere on that horizon, that's close enough that you can sometimes see it with the naked eye. Tee hee. I said "naked".


There were extensive, winding, and uneven steps and stairs all the way down to the water at Taejongdae. We opted not to take the ferry to Haeundae Beach, but we could have. The waves were crashing. it was sweet.


The rocks there looked really interesting: there were some sedimentary, layered-looking rocks, but some other formations that made me wish I knew more about geology.



Once I took a rafting trip with my sister-in-law's brother, who is a High School science teacher, and he was pointing out all kinds of cool stuff about the rock formations in the Rocky Mountains where we were paddling. Very informative. I love that kind of stuff. you can see more of the rocks' neat features here:

Everybody's photogenic at beaches in the mid-late afternoon.


right down at the water in taejongdae


Hey buddy: wanna eat the freshest seafood in the world? The only way to get it fresher is to put on diving gear yourself.


This was waiting for the bus near a restaurant/lookout on the top side of Taejongdae cliffs, after we climbed down and came back up again.




Then, our hotel was near Centum City, and the monstrously huge "Bexco" - Busan's answer to COEX. It was big. Also in Centum City were a Shinsegye and a Lotte Department store built right next to each other in a kind of "who's the boss of this town" one-upmanship thingy, where Lotte built a huge department store, and then Shinsegye built a bigger one right next to it, just because screw you, Lotte group!
Lotte


Shinsegye (note the frame built above the actual roof, in order to make it seem to dwarf Lotte more than it actually does)

the red sign actually says "world's largest department store" Eat that, Lotte!

But the other Lotte Dept Store in Busan had an anchor. No Shinsegye department store didn't have no darn Anchor. Or maybe only a small one. So they can suck it too.

One thing that really struck me about Busan was how different it was than Seoul: here are some things I saw there that are impossible to find in Seoul:

Really tall, kind of ugly apartment buildings.




crowded subway cars.


big grey, monolithic highway structures


all kinds of coffee shop chains




and shiny cosmetics stores. It was all so unfamiliar.


And somehow, down in Busan, they love talking about "Hub" stuff


Nah just kidding, you can find those things in Seoul, too. But actually Busan DOES have a very different feel, and often a different look, than Seoul.

But the subway cars in Busan are narrower.
Also: not many of the apartments in Seoul are built on waterfronts this pretty, frankly:



Busan WAS different from Seoul, and quite a bit cleaner, to be honest.

Finally, Haeundae was fantastic.






The "what to do if a Tsunami comes" sign amused me, too.






I wonder if this sign was up there before the movie "Haeundae" came out.




We had a great time eating: Girlfriendoseyo's mom is a real food aficionado, not afraid to demand the best, or to set aside stuff that's less than the best. We went to a 복 (Blowfish) restaurant, which I've always wanted to do, and had all kinds of variations on Blowfish. Blowfish is cool, because if you slice up the fish wrong, there are some deadly poisons in the fish, but if you cut it right, it's really really good. Whichever brave soul discovered the edible and inedible parts by trial an error wins my respect. I've always wanted to try it, and right next to a beach is always a good place to have a first experience of a seafood.

This restaurant was mad packed already at 9:30 in the morning, when we came. By the time we finished eating at 10:30 the line was going out the door.


one version of the blowfish - the nurungji squares on the bottom were the best.


another restaurant - I don't even know how she found it, it was tucked away in a winding back alley, but she'd found it on the internet, and it was one of the better-reviewed restaurants to be found in Busan.

The name of the place;


and the location:


Last few kicks: climbed a steep hill and walked around this nice park: can't remember the name of it, because I'm either dumb, or too lazy to find out, or too inattentive to find out the name when we went there. Busan Mike has helpfully let us know it's called "Yongdusan" and he even wrote about it.

The dragon was cool, but we also got to see our first flowers of the year, which was a big reason why we went down to Busan in the first place. Seeing as most of march was snowy in freaking Seoul, we were due for a bit of spring's promise.



Spare pics: the downtown shopping area:


you can see the covered, escalator-d entrance to the hill/mountain park at the end of this lane.



and I don't know what to do with this shop name... it kind of fits with "red face" another Korean brand of hiking gear... but I don't dare say anything more. But I had to include it.

Sweet! Fresh Snow~

You may have heard that we had a record-breaking snowfall early on Monday. It was sweet.




Modern comedy is too fast paced. Nobody appreciates a really delicious awkward pause anymore.


And because I love snow, I went out in the snow to take some pictures. Jongmyo Shrine and Changgyeonggung were my destinations, and it was great. I'm going to write this post quickly, so please pardon lack of organizational coherence, etc.. If it really bugs you, well, you got what you paid for, didn't you?

This was built in a snowpile in myeongdong.




Palace and grounds.


























Jongmyo Shrine and Grounds







liked the snow pattern on the roof here








tracking across fresh snow is such a joy. I couldn't even tell you why.


liked this wonky tree. cool-shaped branches


everybody was out there with their cameras, taking pictures of everything.






The ajosshi playground in front of jongmyo shrine.








The fresh snow was deep.

and wet, later.

barely felt like Seoul.


All around myeongdong the snow had been scraped and broom-brushed (can you believe people use brooms to clear snow in Korea? And nobody has a proper snow shovel.


Chunggyecheon at night always makes me happy.





ze han river. taken from a subway car.


more on my travels this christmas break, and a look back on 2009, coming soon on Roboseyo