2014 Recap... A Stinker

2014 is over. And good riddance. As the title indicates, this was a stinker of a year.

Both sides (me and wife) were touched with death this year: teachers and mentors, a special uncle, a well-known member or two of the Korea expat networks, and a beloved pet.

An airplane disappeared. Another was shot down. Another one disappeared just last week. Seriously, what the hell is happening? The Sewol ferry tragedy happened. The Anti-gay Sochi Olympics and Putin's yearlong nose-thumbing at "the West" reminded us what a morally bankrupt sham international sporting events are. As did FIFA's "Let's have a racism free World Cup because we can't have a corruption-free, human trafficking-free or child labor free World Cup," given the stuff happening in Qatar. Yuna Kim got silver, which would have been a low point in other years, but this year comes off trite and shallow next to all the other awfulness of 2014. As summer came up, Wifeoseyo, who normally loves spring, called this the worst spring ever.

South Korea's constitutional court dissolved a political party, and continues its free fall on international freedom of the press and free speech indexes. And that whole UPP thing mostly started because the government needed something to distract the public from the NCIS interfering in the 2012 election to begin with. I mean... what the hell! This is new democracy stuff, not generation-old democracy stuff. Seriously. Meanwhile, South Korea and the country that should be South Korea's best and strongest ally in the region (Japan) are both letting lowest common denominator populism drive their policies towards each other. ARGH!

My favorite bar in the neighborhood, and really, one of the few truly perfect pubs I've been to, closed its doors this spring. One of the coolest new coworkers at my new job I'll tell you about in a minute left after a single semester. My kindle broke, but my son's most annoying noisy toys never break. And I didn't accomplish nearly as much writing of any kind during my unemployed period as I'd have liked.

And I haven't even started into Ferguson, Hands Up, Don't Shoot, Igloo Australia, the NFL star felony of the week, the ruining-for-all-time of Bill Cosby, mainstay of my childhood, or any of the other things that have been flaming up weekly on Twitter and other SNS thanks to many of my facebook friends being Americans.  Sparking sometimes-acrimonious arguments between people I like on Facebook. Hollywood has been mostly shit this year. What a horrible underuse/misuse of the Dinobots!

2014 has been pretty awful. It's a shame my opinions about the events of the year have far outstripped my time or inclination to blog about them, because if I were still at my 2008 "20 blog posts in a month" mode, it'd have been a beast of a year, with rants, rage and fury all over the place.

So... 2014 has been a complete write-off, in a lot of ways. But I don't want to leave on that note, so here are a few of the high points:

1. In the last few months, something clicked in my son, and he's been singing and dancing way more than he did before. And revealing a pretty impressive ability to carry a tune for a three-year-old. He can also be genuinely funny when he wants to - his jokes are no longer all just imitations of funny things he's seen mommy or daddy or grandma do. It has been really fun to be part of him getting older, becoming a little smarter, a little more curious, a little more patient, a little better at asking questions that will get him the knowledge he wants... and doing this in both languages at the same time. He resembles me so much in some ways that mean I have more patience for him than anybody else, and I'm happy to be the one to wait while he lets his methodical side come out.

2. I haven't given it the full write-up yet, but after writing the "beautiful rivers and mountains" post earlier this year, I was invited to write for a TBS EFM (English) documentary about Shin Joong-hyun, Korea's legendary rocker. I'm putting it off in order to give the documenary, and the artist, the treatment they deserve, and this last week I compiled my "Shin Joong Hyun Playlist," which I'll also be sharing, and which I'm quite happy with. It was the kind of dream writing project where I got to find a topic I really liked, work with someone whose enthusiasm and ideas about direction generally matched mine, and get paid for it. So stay tuned for more on that.

3. My father and step-mother visited in October, and they are awesome, and we had an awesome awesome time. We took my first ever trip to Seokcho, watched people shoot fireworks on the beach, drove all over the place, including the closest Poposeyo has ever been to North Korea. We ate some incredible foods -- we went at the perfect season for steamed crab -- but just missed the fall colors, on the early side. My son got to put a face and some real memories to the photos of his Canadian grandparents, which has made the family in Canada that much more real to him.

4. My circle of friends is actually pretty small, and even some of the people I'd love to know better and hang out with more, just don't end up taking slots on my dance card, as it were, because there are so few. But the friends I do have... mean that much more to me because of it, and it's sure nice having the chance to dig in. In an anomaly for expat life, this is was of the years when only one of my cool friends repatriated, and I'm grateful for that. So thanks, Jennifer, Eugene, Danielle, Kenny, and a few others: even if I don't see you all that often, your support, or humor, or insights, or kid who loves to play with my kid, or impeccable taste, or all of the above, have become part of the texture of my life. And Jo... I will miss you dearly. So, thanks, guys. And to the other folks on my list... I hope to get to you this year!

5. I've really enjoyed working on The Cafe Seoul podcast, which I cannot currently link because we're kind of between hosts right now. The other people involved are good folk, and we just last month were awarded "best Podcast" at the K-blog awards. Which means that much more because it was mostly determined by fan voting. The best part of blog awards, however, is always the chance to learn about great new blogs you've been missing.

6. After graduating from my Master's program in February, in September I started a job in one of those University Jobs you always hear about, and it's been good. Now I'm looking down the barrel of an extended vacation, which looks nice too. Maybe I'll study Korean. Or blog more. Or exercise.

7. Great female singers. Back in 2003, other than a few jazz vocalists, almost all the music in my collection was by male singers. I didn't set out to have it that way, but it just kind of happened, without much conscious effort either way. Over the last four years, again without making conscious effort to seek out female artists, I've simply discovered that a huge proportion of the music I've really liked lately has featured female artists. Bat For Lashes, Janelle Monae, Cibo Matto, Sia, P!nk, Sleigh Bells, Azealia Banks, Nicki Minaj, The XX, Dengue Fever, Lee Sora, EMA, Icona Pop, Kim Jungmi, Neko Case, and others comprise well more than half of the newer music I've been excited about over the last few years.

8. Guardians of the Galaxy - the movie this year that made me smile the most, from beginning to end. Especially Groot.

9. Umm... we had a really long, really nice fall, and it didn't get really properly cold until quite late in the year, which was nice.

10. Can I really not even think of 10 things? Really? And I'm using number 9 to talk about the weather? This year was rough.

Um... there's a nice new bagel place in my neighborhood?

Happy new years, readers, and here's to hoping next year is miles better than this one. It's a low bar to clear, I know, but it's a start.

Kim Jong-ho: One Perfect Song

I don't know that much about Kim Jong-ho, but in the process of researching all that old Korean music for a shin joong-hyun documentary that I'll feature in an upcoming post... I just happened upon one of those songs that's simply perfect, where it all comes together:



The song is 보고싶은 마음 from the 1974 album 이름 모를 소녀, or "Nameless Girl."  I haven't been able to find an English translation of the lyrics, and have too much pride to put google translate crap on my blog, but not enough time to attempt a translation of my own, so... no lyrics. I know almost nothing about Kim Jong-ho, except that his album pops up on a collection I have, and manages to stay on the right side of all those balances Korean sentimental songs struggle to balance out, and this album has at least two really lovely songs on it. Listen to this perfect song. I hear a bit of downbeat Beck, a bit of Portishead, and other than that... just straight-up musical goodness. Just listen to the interplay between the violin and the bass. That is all.

Enjoy.

While We're on the Topic of Macademias... and Elites Being Jerks Bingo

While Macademia nuts are all the buzz right now in Korea, because of this story, I don't have all that much to add. You can read more at reuters. The New York Times, The Guardian, or almost anywhere.

My "privileged class/asshole behavior" bingo card is getting pretty full:
privileged class going berzerk? check
public overreaction driven by social media? check
big company doing damage control? check
internet shaming bad behavior by a woman?  check
walk of shame press conference? check
public resignation that is probably a sham until things blow over? check

the only two boxes that remain unchecked yet are these:
the hospital gown/wheelchair combo
netizens moaning that this will damage Korea's global image...


But then, I haven't been paying THAT much attention, so maybe I've missed it.

But while everyone is talking about macademia nuts...
here is my favorite use of the word, ever, and I feel like I just have to add this to the overall discourse.




And if you have any suggestions for more boxes to add to my "Korean elites being assholes bingo" card, feel free to leave them in the comments.

Some Old Korean Rock.

Yes, I have heard the complaint that some kinds of Korean music do nothing artistically -- they just take foreign music and put it in the mouth of somebody Korean.

I think the conversation is much more complex than that -- the act of mediation has a lot of different things in play -- why are they choosing this song or this style instead of another, and why does some stuff catch on, and other stuff not? I had a student tell me about her abiding love for U2, which surprised me, because U2 is almost never the foreign band mentioned when you ask your Korean friend who loves foreign music, to name a few bands they like. I've never heard a Korean pick a U2 song in a noraebang. Not to mention, you can just put on a record... so why do we want our singers to bang out live versions of songs, if accuracy is the issue? It's not. There's simply more going on. And even if imitation is the only thing that's going on, well so what? Anybody impressed with the cover is very likely to look up the original, and might even accidentally come across some great music, thanks to a shitty cover.

Those covers don't always work. Some covers do strike me as utterly unnecessary because they've done very little with the original except add a new color scheme, dance moves, or a different vocal style. But then, that doesn't only happen across cultures (original). And when it doesn't work, we can get rude and dismissive.

But then you come across Shin Joong-hyun's cover of In-a Gadda Da Vida (original by Iron Butterfly)... and I'm willing to forgive a lot of derivative works if every once in a while, something this magical comes across.

Play it through. Play it loud. Or don't bother. But... bother. It's worth it.


And ultimately... I have no problem with the idea of adapting things for a target audience. Why the heck wouldn't you? Italian food is so successful worldwide because pasta is easy, and sauces are infinitely flexible, and thus infinitely adaptable to available ingredients and local taste. And yes, there will be someone somewhere sniffing about authenticity, and they should just go to Naples. Ditto for music. You've got to use the available ingredients, and suit things to local taste. As long as royalties are being paid... all the power to ya!

The Pearl Sisters


Their live version of Jefferson Airplane's "Somebody To Love" made them famous.


Another thing I like about Korean music is the way certain songs keep coming up. There's kind of a repertory, and if you listen to enough music, you'll start recognizing them. Not all of them are even Korean songs anymore - somebody always wants to drop Nella Fantasia or "The Susan Boyle song" into the mix.

For example, any female who wants to show off her pipes chooses this one. (Kim Chuja is the original singer.)

It's an emotional rail spike, and it's effective as hell when a woman with a lower range pours her heart into it.

(If she wants to show off her pipes and her English, she picks Mariah Carey's Hero, or Let it Go.)

You can find dozens of versions of it, from darn near everyone. Here. Get started. It's viral video bait in Korea -- right up there with Nella Fantasia (aka Gabriel's Oboe)

I've been listening to more Shin Joong-hyun again lately, and I've heard him revisit songs with different artists and different arrangements a bunch of times, and I love how he brings out a different side each time. Numerous songs appear multiple times in his 8 disk anthology, which was generously shared with me by a reader. (Thanks, Adam.) It manages to highlight both his songwriting (to write a song that glows under so many different lights) and his musicianship (taking a song we know, and still surprising us).

He's done this song (떠나야 할 그사람 - The Man Who Must Leave) a bunch of different times, and each one is interesting. It started with the Pearl Sisters, one of his first proteges, and from there everybody did it, including Shin himself. My favorite might be this version by 김선 (listed as by Kim Chu-Ja by shazam, but that's a boy's voice). And more recently, In-Sooni took it in a totally different direction.



Another one is 봄비 or "Spring Rain" - which has been done by a swack of people, (Park In-Soo, Jang Sa-ik... but there's another song floating around with the same name, by the way) and has a very distinctive "na na" ending that you'll remember if you've heard it. This is another of those songs that makes everybody feel that happy kind of sad.

Shin's own version of this song is the saddest, in my opinion. As he got older, his voice just oozed some kind of disappointment. Fittingly.


Some people might argue that this kind of recurrence of songs is a minus in Korean music, but I have to disagree. First of all, the cult of the singer-songwriter is a culture and even a genre-specific phenomenon coming out of western (mostly white) rock and roll, where Rolling Stone writers got swept up in The Beatles, who made it a selling point on their artistic originality that they wrote their own songs. Now there's something really admirable about a great songwriter -- Tom Waits and Leonard Cohen are two of the artists that find their ways back on my playlist more than almost any other -- but it's also silly to take points away from someone just because the song's not an original. In jazz music, it's fine to sing the standards, and even preferred if the alternative would be a great singer or musician doing crappy songs, because they're limiting themselves to their own bad songwriting. In classical music, you're pretty much required to perform other people's compositions, and nobody rages on Glenn Gould for doing all those Bach cover albums.

If you take points away from Aretha Franklin for not having written "Respect" (she didn't) or Jimi Hendrix for not writing "All Along The Watchtower," then in my opinion, you're kind of missing the point. Learning someone wrote their own songs is great while I'm scanning the bio, and I often do prefer the original version once I find it, but as soon as I press play, it's about the music, not the origin story. In his "50 Greatest K-pop artists" series (which you should be following, by the way), The Korean talks about the role Kim Kwang Seok played in helping to develop the repertory of Korean songs, and that's important work, developing a sense of heritage from which future artists can draw inspiration. While the originality of some artists is great and praiseworthy, it's not the be-all and end-all for a great musical experience, even if your songwriter was some Swedish ringer. Furthermore, sometimes a well-placed cover demonstrates a sense of history, a sense of heritage and respect for the pioneers, that deepens an artist's repertoire, even as it honors what came before.

So while I don't like every new cover of an old song, and while I in fact think that "Hallelujah" has been wrecked (but not irreparably) by too many crappy reality talent show audition covers, I think it's great when artists nod to their past, and bring us a new look at a song we already know.

News Rundown: Sewol Standoff, Dog Meat, That Pub, and Depression

A few news items have been blazing across my Facebook wall, and I'd like to weigh in briefly on a few of them. I'll be as concise as I can.

Sewol Ferry Law, Riot Police Overkill and Overreaching

The National assembly is deadlocked, as the ruling party and the opposition party cannot agree to the conditions for a special investigation into the Sewol Ferry disaster, and the opposition party are boycotting participation in any other parliamentary actions while waiting for the leading party to capitulate to their demands. Read up here. And here. And this one is my favorite. This longer piece at The Marmot's Hole looks into the motivations of the political players.

At the same time, the Gwanghwamun area, which I regularly travel through and around in my weekly schedule, is also deadlocked, with police buses and riot troops turning broad roadways into traffic bottlenecks. In my opinion, the number of police sent out there is overkill by a magnitude of order. There look to be 10 police for every one protestor I've seen. On the other hand... perhaps that mad overkill is what dissuades larger crowds from bothering to show up... and I can remember back to 2008 and 2009, when protesters would overrun police barriers and block traffic all weekend in Gwanghwamun, just because they could, misguidedly thinking that snarling the entire downtown would gain sympathy, rather than turning every driver against their cause... and well, at least the police keep one lane open.

I'm annoyed by both situations, because both dumb deadlocks are based on one side presuming that the other side will go nuclear - protestors getting violent and destroying police buses and attacking police, and politicians headhunting the president at every opportunity - given the tiniest shred of leeway. The problem, in both cases, is that in the past both protestors and opposition politicians have done exactly that, given any opportunity, so while I really hate all this recalcitrance and stubbornness, I see where it's coming from, and while I really hope the Sewol families get justice, and a full accounting for what went wrong, and they don't seem to be getting that from the ruling party, it's a shame they have to align with the political left, who come across (as usual) as if they're in it more for the damage they can inflict on the ruling party than out of any actual concern for the families devastated in this tragedy. I knew this Sewol thing would get politicised eventually, but I'm disgusted by how it's happened.

I keep going back and forth, like Louis CK.


On the one side... when a party acts as if it's hiding wrongdoing (perhaps simply out of habit), after a while people start guessing it's because there is some serious wrongdoing just waiting for the right rock to be overturned.

On the other side, it makes sense that they are acting defensively, trying to pre-emptively prevent the investigative committee from turning into a presidential head-hunting team, because the progressive party goes after the president whenever they can. Given their track record for overreaching, they've given the conservatives no reason to expect they won't do it again. Nor me.

Part of the story hinges on the formation, and composition, of a "fact finding committee" -- and the formation of special committees has always been fraught in South Korea, where everyone suspects everyone has an agenda, and/or has something to hide. The sordid track record of politicising Truth and Reconciliation Commissions is a good place to start for the way grievances never seem to get resolved in South Korea, especially when they involve powerful people.

It's a mess. It's a quagmire. It's the reason Korean people don't have faith in their government. It's the reason Korean people latch onto newcomers who promise to "change the way politics is done" -- as if it could be done, when every politician except that one person has something to lose in the case of actual change. Koreans seem to expect the worst of their politicians, yet Korean politicians have repeatedly lived down, and then sunk below that expectation.

Could the president have done something to make the Sewol tragedy unfold differently than it did? Probably, but not on the day it happened. There are heads that richly deserve to roll, and people who did get away with stuff. Who have covered up their shame more cleverly and subtly than the Sewol captain, and who'll probably get away with it. Shit is still happening that shows that actual concern for safety hasn't been impressed on the rank and file, those to whom we trust our safety (Saemangeum seawall workers were out having dinner instead of warning boats not to approach the seawall while the gate was open).

Dog meat: On the way out

I wrote about dog meat a few times before. Here. And here, with ruminations on the nature of online debate.

A recent article in Yahoo Finance, of all places, discusses the closing of a famous dog meat restaurant -- where presidents themselves ate -- and the slow decline of dog meat consumption, in the absence of young people eating it. The comment I put on my Facebook page was this:

Dog meat is a generational thing, and if foreign lobby groups had ignored it in 1988, causing certain people to cling to "our culture" mainly because "dem furriners" were telling them not to, and screw them! I believe dog meat would probably already be nearly extinct.  

Humanity and cruelty aside, it's economics that will do dog dishes in, and there just isn't a future in the market for it, when nearly every consumer is grey-haired. It'll go the way of bbundaegi (which is also slowly vanishing, with much less fanfare, because foreign lobby groups never convinced a group of Koreans it's part of "their" culture).

An academic paper I came across while researching the '88 olympics, discovered these outcomes from global pressure to ban dog meat in Korea during the buildup to the olympics:

The goal of this paper has been to assess the world polity perspective for one empirical case: the debate surrounding dog meat consumption in South Korea. In this case, global cultural scripts rejecting dog meat consumption did not translate directly or in a predictable fashion to conforming Korea’s practices into the world system. In this case, integration of world cultural norms has transformed existing cultural practices into something not quite resembling what came before (traditional dog meat eating practices) nor what the adherents of the world polity perspective might predict (the abolition of dog meat). Rather, dog meat eating practices have transformed into a more widespread cultural activity legitimised by greater protections against animal cruelty and greater awareness of the role of dog meat consumption within the discourse of South Korean national pride.

*Minjoo Oh & Jeffrey Jackson (2011) "Animal Rights vs. Cultural Rights: Exploring the Dog Meat Debate in South Korea from a World Polity Perspective." Journal of Intercultural Studies. 32.1, 31-56.

That is to say, by trying to ban dog meat, global animal rights groups created a backlash, causing a practice that had been dying out anyways on its own, to be practiced and cherished as a site for practicing and celebrating cultural identity. That cultural pride association had become strong enough by 2002 (World Cup) that anti-dog lobbyers were met with resistance that used the language of respect for cultural uniqueness. If international animal rights folks had said nothing in 1986-7, I think dog meat would probably have died away on its own before 2000, lacking any wind in its sagging sails.

I said in previous posts -- meat is meat, and I have trouble accepting arguments that it's OK to eat one critter, but not another, and I've always argued that Korean society will age out of dog meat in its own sweet time. Interesting to see I'm being proven right.

The Pub Thing

The offensive sign in the pub, and the outraged response, has been beaten into the ground on Facebook, and was blogged about at Asia Pundits, Adam R Carr's blog (which tries to sniff through the (in?)sincerity of the proprietors' initial responses and denials), and Korea Observer, who attended the "apology" night, where the owner got too drunk to apologize (yikes!). A surprising number of people have come out on Facebook to defend or pooh-pooh outrage over an action that is indefensible in any way.

Mostly this summary was an excuse to share this
funny image from the Dokdo is Ours post.

For the record, the signs were only up at the location for about an hour, but the same article by Korea Observer that mentions that fact, seems also to give us a clue as to the real motivations for putting up the sign: a group of bar patrons from ... um... a country that would be excluded if all Africans were banned... who were bothering females in the club. Even Dokdo Is Ours (hey hey!) got in on the feeding frenzy, ending with a joke about the way so many people have trouble naming more than a handful of countries in Africa, and talking about Africa as if it were a single, undifferentiated country.

If I were the bar owner, I'd close down for a week and re-open under a new name. But honestly, given now many people attending bars in Itaewon either aren't tuned into expat facebook activism anyway, and how short expat memory is because of high turnover, not to mention how many people drinking in Itaewon aren't even foreigners anymore these days, I doubt a Facebook activist run boycott (if anybody bothered to organise one) would even have a serious effect. The location probably matters more than whether the proprietors are or aren't racist, but next time we suggest a sign saying "the management reserves the right to refuse service to any customer at any time" instead of "No Africans because... um... Ebola, I guess."

You can hear more of my thoughts on that issue at the Cafe Seoul Podcast -- some of my blogging energy has been going into the Cafe Seoul Podcast lately, and I am rather pleased with it. It's put together by my friend Eugene, and a couple of other pals, and our last few episodes have all made me happy. Maybe they will make you happy, too.

Here's the Ebola Pub episode. IBlug won't embed for some reason, so you'll just have to click on the link.

You can also search "Cafe Seoul Podcast" on iTunes, or click here.

Robin Williams and Depression

I, like everyone else of my generation, was staggered by the unexpected passing of Robin Williams: we were raised on his movies. There were conversations about which Robin Williams movies we loved (Hook, Aladdin, Good Will Hunting, The Fisher King, Dead Poets' Society, are my top five), the ones we not-quite-loved (Death To Smoochy, What Dreams May Come, and Jakob the Liar were two of the movies that taught me that even actors I like can make bad movies), and who can forget his appearance on Whose Line Is It Anyway, topped only by Richard Simmons' "Possibly The Best Five Minutes On The Internet", or his stand-up.

And the conversation veered into discussions of suicide. Cracked had the subtly titled "Why Funny People Kill Themselves", and my sister-in-law wrote this beautiful bit on her blog, which I'm copying but not linking, because I didn't ask permission, and if she wants my readers on her blog, she can put the link in the comments. Perhaps she doesn't.

Cancer, and diabetes, and kidney disease, and strokes, and fatal heart attacks, and Alzheimers are all horrible illnesses.  But you know what happens at the end of them?
The person dies OF the disease. 

We say, "Shirley died OF cancer,"  "James kidneys failed him," "Bonnie had a horrible stroke."  The disease killed them, got them, attacked them.  The disease was not associated at all with WHO they were, quite the opposite in fact, the disease got them.     

I don't know why it is that this isn't the case in with mental illness.  We likely won't speak of Robin Williams "dying of depression," or being the victim of "brain failure." Forever his death will be tainted with the tag "suicide," and in that, just so many complicated and avoided issues.  

...When people commit suicide, they are sick.  End of story.  They are sick like any dying person laying in a hospital bed, only they are likely getting far less comfort, love, and compassion in the hours leading to their passing. 

They die OF something.  They do not choose to die.  The disease has killed them, at least any shred left of who they once were. 

Similar sentiments here. Fact is, depression and mental illness still face a stigma other diseases don't. Nobody goes into the cancer ward saying "Why don't you just... not have cancer any more?" and if they did they've be acknowledged without debate as an ignorant asshole. But people do that for depression. "I'm getting tired of you and all this leukaemia shit. Snap out of it!" Said no-one, ever. "You know, maybe a little exercise is what you need for that liver failure." "Some volunteering might help put your muscular dystrophy in perspective." "I think you're just having tuberculosis for attention." So... it's terribly sad we've lost another hero of my childhood, particularly for his family and the people around him. Hopefully it will start more conversations about mental health, which will have positive outcomes in the end. But if that happens, to be clear, it doesn't mean it was worth it that even one more person, famous or not, lost the battle with depression. Every life lost is a deep tragedy.

Lest we miss an opportunity to share this information, you may have heard suicide is a pretty serious social problem in Korea. Here are some Korean suicide resources: http://www.counsel24.com/  http://www.suicide.org/hotlines/international/south-korea-suicide-hotlines.html and some other international suicide help lines. http://www.reddit.com/r/SWResources/comments/17gu7g/hotline_numbers/ Share others you know about in the comments.

Those are a few of the things floating across my brain-dar these days. Hope it was interesting for you to read, and that the thoughts are mostly well-formed, rather than half-baked.

That is all for now.